A Coastal Walk - Chouet Bay to Cobo Bay, Guernsey, Channel Islands

‘Seeing the watery part of the world is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation.  Whenever I find myself growing dim about the mouth; whenever it is a damp drizzly November in my soul; whenever I find myself involuntarily pausing before coffin warehouses....... I account it high time to get to sea as soon as I can’   Moby Dick, Herman Melville 

I have spent a lot of time walking the hills and valleys of Yorkshire, there is so much beautiful countryside, wide open moors with a rugged wildness that I love.  However, I also love a good coastal walk, and I had the opportunity to try a new path this summer whilst visiting the stunning Channel Islands. 

The coastal walk from Chouet Bay to Cobo Bay offers fabulous views of the Guernsey coastline and this pristine part of the English Channel and this is path I took.

It was a slightly grey July day and whilst the sun was not shining the walk was still beautiful; sandy beaches embraced by rugged rocks, a winding coastline and colourful boats. 

Chouet & Ladies Bay, my starting point, is a beautiful beach and headland on the northwestern coast of Guernsey.  A sweeping sandy beach framed by rocky outcrops and a backdrop of greenery and gorse, which is in fact the second fairway on the Royal Guernsey golf course. Approaching Les Amarreurs the view is punctuated with pops of colour from upturned boats and kayaks on the beach and small boats, moored, bobbing gently on the calm sea. The path is clear and easy to follow which allows you to relax, enjoy the walk and take in the views.  

A coastal hike is so different to the senses from inland walks; the sounds, the smells, the wildlife and the scenery, the raw beauty of nature where land meets the sea.  Looking out to the ocean it is easy to be both invigorated and soothed by the waves and the scattering light across the wide expanse of water. 

Facing the sea, I turned left and set off along the sandy path, fringed with windswept untamed grass towards my destination. 

Continuing along the path through the grassy headlands and low-lying dunes the coastline soon evolves and the sweeping pebble strewn sands of La Grand Havre open up offering a view of one of Guernsey’s largest natural harbours. A large shallow bay of serene, unspoiled beauty, this expansive bay offers a unique coastal landscape that contrasts with the island’s more dramatic, rocky shores.  

Grande Havre is rich in aquatic life and wildlife, especially bird-life. Wading birds like little egrets, oyster-catchers, and curlews frequent the fertile tidal flats and rock pools feeding on the abundance of shellfish and crustaceans and the remains of an Oyster farm can be seen out in the bay. A lone fisherman clad in a bright red jacket stood on the tide line adding an interesting centre point to the view.

One of the joys of this walk is the diversity of the natural environment. The coastal paths are lined with windswept grasses and hardy wildflowers, adding splashes of colour to the landscape and the scent of wild fennel seems to be ever-present on this part of the coast. In addition to this abundance of natural beauty, the journey along leads to numerous historical landmarks. The island is area steeped in military history and the next bay and headland along this walk is Rousse.  Rousse is a small headland that extends out into the sea, allowing for panoramic views across the north coast of Guernsey and out to the island of Alderney. 

The focal point of the peninsula is Rousse Tower, a tower and battery in a single fortification.  Built in the late 18th century, the tower was part of the island’s coastal defences against the threat of French invasion during the Napoleonic Wars.

Standing tall on the headland, this stone structure offers a glimpse into Guernsey’s military history.  The walk up the path to the historical tower offers a fabulous view across the coastline and the surrounding seas. 

My walk continued along the winding path filled with rocky outcrops, sandy dunes with the sea as a constant companion.  

Scattered all along the coastline are further remnants of WW2 fortifications.  These historic bunkers and gun emplacements are a stark reminder of war-time Guernsey. Many are now weathered and have been partly reclaimed by the wild natural landscape. 

The coastal path led me past the rocky bay and outcrop that is Portiner to the horse-shoe shaped bay of Port Soif, a small but perfectly formed and sheltered soft sandy beach.  

Tearing myself away from this lovely spot I continued along the path towards Grandes Rocques another scenic coastal spot.  Grandes Rocques has a lovely stretch of soft white sand, fringed with distinctive, large granite rocks that jut out into the sea, backed by grassy dunes.  The pretty beach cafe located there is a perfect stop off with its lovely colourful painted benches and a coffee with a beautiful sea view.  

The final stretch of my walk led me to Cobo Bay, one of the most striking and popular beaches on the island.  Cobo has a wide expanse of soft, white sand and its stunningly clear waters making it a perfect spot for swimming and soaking up the sun. Cobo Bay also has a number of charming seaside cafes, pubs and restaurants, perfect for a post-walk refreshment. 

This linear coastal walk from Chouet Bay to Cobo Bay is an easy but wonderful coastal walk. It offers a perfect combination of rugged natural beauty, tranquil beaches, and fascinating history.   While I did not get blue skies on the day of my walk, it was still beautiful, and I was happy to retrace my steps along this scenic path to where I started.    

 Walked July 2024 🥾